| Our
2003 Yamaha Blaster needed some new pep. We decided to
shop around with several vendors and looked at their
dyno numbers and prices. We also looked over several
discussion forums sites to see what people were buying.
With the quality control and power gains we have
experienced with Toomey
Racing's Banshee exhaust systems, we decided to go
with the Toomey Racing's Blaster B-1 kit.
We
Placed our order and received the following:
|
1.
Chrome B-1 Blaster Expansion Chamber.
2.
Billet Aluminum Cylinder Flange (Blue).
3.
Aluminum Silencer with all hangers.
4.
Perfect Jet Kit.
5.
High Flow Foam Air Filter.
6.
Uni Airbox Vents. |
Lets
begin the install. First thing to do is THOROUGHLY wash
the bike and engine. Take your time with this step.
Clean all dirt and debris from around the carburetor.
The cleaner the better.
Next
we remove the seat and start by loosening all screws and
bolts that hold the stock exhaust system in place. We
removed the stock silencer and set it aside. We next
moved to the expansion pipe. Remove the two head nuts
(Figure 1:) and the hanger bolt from the top of the
pipe. It takes some wiggling and turning but the
pipe can be fed out the left side of the bike.
We
then installed the Billet Cylinder Flange. Make sure
that the sealing ring is used from the stock exhaust. It
usually stays in the head, but sometimes comes out on
the stock exhaust. Clean this rubber sealing ring with
some acetone. Place the flange in place over the head
studs and tighten snuggly with the two stock exhaust
bolts. (Figure 2:)
Now
we can install the B-1 Expansion Chamber. This is where
an extra set of hands comes in handy. Feed the pipe
through the frame and loosely install the top bolt that
holds the pipe to the frame. Slip the pipe onto the
newly installed flange. Tip: Put a small amount of
two stroke oil on the rubber O-ring to help the pipe
slip onto the flange more easily. Next install the
exhaust springs and tighten the upper mount bolt.
Lets
move onto the silencer. Assemble the stinger pipe to the
silencer. Slip the supplied rubber sealing hose over the
front of the stinger pipe and feed the assembly through
the frame. Slip the stinger pipe into the expansion
chamber and loosely install all of the factory hanger
bolts. Line everything up and tighten all the bolts.
On
to the hardest part of the install, the jetting. Make
sure the gas petcock is in the OFF position. We start
this process by removing the airbox lid and snorkel.
Remove the rubber flap that protects the top of the carb
by removing the two rear bolts from the gas tank. We
next loosen the two hose clamps that hold the carburetor
in place. Rotate the carb up so you can access the carb
bowl. Remove the four screws that hold the carb bowl in
place. Remove the plastic splash guard by pulling it
straight down. Use a 6mm nut driver to remove the brass main jet
located in the middle of the carb. Replace this jet with
the supplied jet from the Toomey Perfect Jet kit.
replace the plastic splash guard and reinstall the four
carb bowl screws. Use caution with this because you do
not want to bend the floats.
Next
is to set the needle position. Tip: If you have a
2003 or newer Blaster you do not need to do this step
because the needle clip is already set to the third
position. Start by loosening the carb cap retaining
clamp. Unscrew the carb cap and pull the throttle slide
out of the carb. Remove the retaining bracket, located
inside the slide, and remove the needle. The needle
needs to be set in the third clip position from the top
with the needle pointing down. Reinstall the throttle
bracket into the slide and the slide back into the carb.
Tip: Use your finger to guide the needle into the jet
from the backside of the carb. This will assure that you
do not bend the needle. Replace the carb cap and retaining
bracket. Reinstall the carb and tighten the hose clamps.
You
now need to set the pilot air screw to the proper
position. The factory setting is one and a half turns
out from seat. You need to turn the screw down to seat
and back out 3/4 of a turn.
We
now have a better flowing exhaust but need more air to
feed it. Lets modify the airflow. The B-1 kit comes with
a High Flow Foam filter, but we like the K&N Cotton Gauze
filters better. They are, in our mind, easier to clean
and re-oil than foam filters and when used with a
Outerwears Pre-filter it is really easy to maintain. We
replaced the stock Yamaha filter with the K&N High
Flow filter and covered it with a Outerwears
pre-filter.
We
need to modify the airbox lid to allow for more air to
flow. We start this with removing the restrictive stock
snorkel. Next we use a 1" hole saw to drill 6 holes
in the airbox lid. We then snapped in six of the Uni-Vents
into the holes we just drilled. The kit comes with 12 of
these vents but 6 is good enough for our altitude. Tip:
Use a little motor oil to dampen the foam in the Uni-Vents.
This will provide extra protection. Replace the
airbox lid and recheck all connections, clamps, screws,
and bolts.
Toomey
Racing claims a 25% increase in HP over a wider
powerband, as compared to the stock exhaust. We have
ridden the Blaster and WOW what a difference. This is a
pretty easy upgrade and you will get your $349.99 (msrp)
worth.
Look
for our review on the Toomey Racing B-1 Blaster kit
coming soon to our Product
Reviews section. |
